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Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance

Fryer, Simon1; Giles, David2; Palomino, Inmaculada, Garrido3; Puerta, Alejandro de la, O4; Romero, Vanesa, España3

The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research: March 13, 2017 - Volume Publish Ahead of Print - Issue - p
doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
Original Research: PDF Only

Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from the aerobic metabolism. Previously it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics, or a sport specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal de-oxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance. Twenty-one male sport rock climbers completed a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max and an assessment of near infrared spectroscopy derived oxidative capacity index. Linear regression, adjusted for age and experience (years), revealed that forearm oxidative capacity index, treadwall maximal de-oxygenation (Δ) and treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak all significantly predicted self-reported red-point sport climbing ability (Adj R[SUBSCRIPT TWO] =-0.398; -0.255; 0.374 respectively), whereas treadmill running V[Combining Dot Above]O2max did not (Adj R[SUBSCRIPT TWO] =0.-0.052). Additionally, multiple regression suggested that the combined significant aerobic predictors accounted for 67% of the variance in red-point climbing ability. Findings suggest that training for sport rock climbing performance should look to incorporate modalities which focus on 1) improving local forearm aerobic capacity, and 2) improving whole body aerobic capacity using sport-specific apparatus such as treadwalls.

1University of Gloucestershire School of Sport and Exercise Faculty of Applied Sciences Oxstalls Campus

2Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences University of Derby Buxton Campus

3Department of Physical Education, School of Education University of Cádiz

4Department of Physiology School of Medicine University of Granada Granada Spain

Corresponding author: Dr Simon Matthew Fryer, University of Gloucestershire, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, Oxstalls Campus, Gloucester, GL2 9HW, Tel: +44 (0) 1242 715221,

Dr Simon Matthew Fryer,, Mr David Giles,, Miss Inmaculada Garrido Palomino, , Dr Vanesa España-Romero,, Mr Alejandro de la O Puerta,

Copyright © 2018 by the National Strength & Conditioning Association.