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Four Weeks of finger grip training increases the rate of force development and the maximal force in elite and world-top ranking climbers

Levernier, Guillaume1,2; Laffaye, Guillaume1,2

The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research: September 19, 2017 - Volume Publish Ahead of Print - Issue - p
doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000002230
Original Research: PDF Only

The goal of this study was to assess the impact of a specific four-week training program on finger grip in climbers; specifically, on the maximal force and the rate of force development (RFD) of finger muscles in isometric contraction. The participants were 14 French male rock climbers who took part in national and international bouldering competitions (at world-ranking and elite levels). They were divided into two samples. The experimental group performed a specific four-week training program that included such exercises as suspensions on small holds at the rate of three times a week. The control group performed climbing exercises only. The maximal force and the RFD were recorded using a specific dynamometer in three different holding conditions (slope crimp, half crimp and full crimp). Results reveal a significant gain of force for the slope crimp (+ 8 %) and a high increase of the RFD in the first 200ms of the force-time slope (between 27.5 % and 32 % for averaged conditions), suggesting a neural gain rather a change in muscle-tendon structure. These results reveals that a four-week training program is enough to improve the level of maximum force and rate of force development in elite climbers. Bearing in mind that climbing will make its appearance in a future Olympic Games in the form of a combined competition, i.e., bouldering, speed climbing and lead climbing, it will be crucial for each athlete to develop both a high level of force and RFD to be competitive.

1CIAMS, Univ. Paris-Sud, Université Paris-Saclay, 91405 Orsay Cedex, France

2CIAMS, Université d'Orléans, 45067, Orléans, France

Corresponding author: Guillaume Laffaye, Laboratoire Contrôle Moteur et Perception, University Paris-Sud, Bât 335, 91405 Orsay Cedex, France Tel: + 33 1 69 15 31 59 Fax: + 33 1 69 15 62 22 E-mail:

No funding was received from any of the following organizations: National Institutes of Health (NIH); Wellcome Trust; Howard Hughes Medical Institute (HHMI); and other(s).

Copyright © 2018 by the National Strength & Conditioning Association.