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EFFECTS OF SPORT ROCK CLIMBING AND ACTIVE VS PASSIVE RECOVERY ON HAND GRIP FORCE AND BLOOD LACTATE 1278

Gallagher, P.; Daggett, M.; Wilkins, B.; Watts, P. B. FACSM

Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise: May 1997 - Volume 29 - Issue 5 - p 223
Annual Meeting Abstracts
Free

Exercise Science Lab., Northern Michigan Univ., Marquette, MI

(Sponsor: P.B. Watts, FACSM)

Supported by NMU Faculty Grant 5-54632 and the Boulder Rock Club.

    Difficult sport rock climbing routes may require multiple attempts by a climber before success is realized. Also, competitive climbers often employ interval repertitions in specific training. Little is known, however, regarding acute recovery from a difficult route ascent or during climbing-specific workouts. The purpose of this study was to observe the effects of climbing a competition-type route and subsequent recovery on blood lactate and hand grip force. Fifteen male rock climbers signed informed consent and attempted to lead a 19 meter overhanging route (rated difficulty of 5.12b: YDS scale) on an indoor climbing wall. Each subject was allowed a self-determined warm up prior to the ascent. Fingertip blood samples were obtained pre-climb and at 1-, 10-, 20-, and 30-min post-climb and analyzed for whole blood lactate (BLA). Hand grip force (HG) was measured via dynamometry immediately following each blood sample. Subjects were randomly assigned to either active recovery (AR, n=8), consisting of recumbent cycle ergometry at 25 Watts, or passive recovery (PR, n=7). Eleven subjects completed the route, while four subjects fell 2 meters from the end. Mean climbing time was 2.57±0.41 min. The following table summarizes results:

    Although HG decreased with climbing for both groups, the changes were not significant. BLA was significantly elevated post-climb for both groups and non-specific active recovery facilitated the return of BLA to pre-climb values after 20 minutes.

    Section Description

    F-18 POSTER PERCEIVED EXERTION

    © Williams & Wilkins 1997. All Rights Reserved.